You’ll want the surface to be flat, so if it’s necessary, break out your grinder and smooth over the top of the plate. If you MIG welded either your rosette welds or the edges of the reinforcement plates, you might have some excess weld slag that could possibly prevent a full connection between the subframe and its mounting point. Make sure you get the edges of the plates in their entirety, along with the holes in the middle of the plates. Some shapes will be more difficult than others.
Move from plate to plate until they’re complete, making sure you have each plate in the proper orientation with enough space around the edges to account for the welding bead. As a matter of fact, it’ll be much easier to MIG the holes in the reinforcement plates. After mounting up the plates using the supplied bolt, take the drill and drill slightly into the sheet metal through that hole don’t punch all the way through to the inside of the car, but drill it just enough so that you can lay down a rosette weld to seal together the layers of metal underneath the reinforcement plate.įrom there, lay down your welds! The customer requested we TIG the plates, but using a MIG welder is 100% okay, as well. You see those larger holes in the subframe reinforcements? That’s where you’ll be drilling.
The first thing you’ll need to do today is break out your cordless drill and 1/2″ drill bit. From here, it’s a good idea to whip out your Turner-supplied instructions as a complement to the pictures here, just in case something isn’t clear. If you’ve been following the last two parts of the DIY, which we’ve run yesterday and Tuesday, you should have your underbody surfaces prepped as well as your reinforcement plates. Let’s finish this off the way we’ve been doing it so far - with plenty of pictures and info! Alright, today’s our last day of the E46 M3 Subframe Reinforcement DIY.
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